Syd Jerome Presents...
THE NEW SYD JEROME SPRING/SUMMER MAGAZINE JUST ARRIVED - TIME TO CHECK YOUR CLOSET
AND WHAT’S AN UNSTRUCTURED SPORT COAT?
I was looking for inspiration for this column when the new issue of the magazine arrived. I had already been looking through my closets to see what needed altering and what needed discarding (A suit and sport coat were donated through Mayer Brown to the Urban Alliance which requested “gently used professional clothing.”)
Given my supposed slow down and transition to Pro Bono Advisor (I’m a failure at slowing down, but I still enjoy being a lawyer and dressing for court - albeit less than before.) did I want or need a new suit? And if so…vested or double breasted? But while I like both styles, they could be too uncomfortable on a hot Chicago summer day.
So, what about a new navy blazer? They never go out of style and they can be dressed up or worn casually. But I did not want a navy blazer that looked like I was wearing a navy suit sans trousers. I wanted a more relaxed looking fabric.
SO STRUCTURED VS UNSTRUCTURED?
I stopped in the store thinking I would look at fabric samples to design a sport coat. I knew I wanted an unstructured sport coat. A structured sport coat will have some shoulder padding and a full lining. It will also have canvas between the fabric and the lining. This gives it a more structured look. An unstructured sport coat will have little or no shoulder padding. You will only feel fabric when you touch the shoulders. It will also have either a partial lining, known as a butterfly lining, in the upper part of the jacket or no lining. The butterfly lining makes it easier to take the coat on or off. No lining reduces the weight of the jacket and makes it cooler to wear. The other look I like in an unstructured sport coat is open patch pockets. Flap pockets give the coat a dressier look.
I was looking through fabric selections when Scott brought over an unlined Pal Zileri jersey lightweight wool blazer. It was just what I was looking for - no waiting for a coat to be made. The only change we added was to substitute a lighter button for the ones that came with the coat. This makes it look even less like a suit jacket and adds to the casual look of the coat. As you can see from the photo below, we put together a complete outfit. Paired with a blue Eton shirt, a light colored striped silk tie from Senstroms and a blue denim pocket square from Paolo Albizzati (I like cotton or wool pocket squares because they don’t sink into your chest pocket and they look more casual than silk pocket squares) and dress wool trousers, I am ready for any occasion - even court; so long as I am not in front of a jury! I can dress the jacket down by pairing it with jeans or khaki (chino) trousers and a sport shirt or even a t-shirt.
So stop in and see the large collection of unstructured sport coats. But there are plenty of dressier structured sport coats - if the mood or occasion demands it.
P.S. – As usual, Juan is responsible for making certain the outfit looks presentable in a photo!