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  • The New Syd Jerome Spring/Summer Magazine, Time To Check Your Closet | Sartorially Speaking by Marc Kadish

    Syd Jerome Presents...

    THE NEW SYD JEROME SPRING/SUMMER MAGAZINE JUST ARRIVED - TIME TO CHECK YOUR CLOSET
    AND WHAT’S AN UNSTRUCTURED SPORT COAT?

    I was looking for inspiration for this column when the new issue of the magazine arrived. I had already been looking through my closets to see what needed altering and what needed discarding (A suit and sport coat were donated through Mayer Brown to the Urban Alliance which requested “gently used professional clothing.”)

    Given my supposed slow down and transition to Pro Bono Advisor (I’m a failure at slowing down, but I still enjoy being a lawyer and dressing for court - albeit less than before.) did I want or need a new suit? And if so…vested or double breasted? But while I like both styles, they could be too uncomfortable on a hot Chicago summer day.

    So, what about a new navy blazer? They never go out of style and they can be dressed up or worn casually. But I did not want a navy blazer that looked like I was wearing a navy suit sans trousers. I wanted a more relaxed looking fabric.

    SO STRUCTURED VS UNSTRUCTURED?

    I stopped in the store thinking I would look at fabric samples to design a sport coat. I knew I wanted an unstructured sport coat. A structured sport coat will have some shoulder padding and a full lining. It will also have canvas between the fabric and the lining. This gives it a more structured look. An unstructured sport coat will have little or no shoulder padding. You will only feel fabric when you touch the shoulders. It will also have either a partial lining, known as a butterfly lining, in the upper part of the jacket or no lining. The butterfly lining makes it easier to take the coat on or off. No lining reduces the weight of the jacket and makes it cooler to wear. The other look I like in an unstructured sport coat is open patch pockets. Flap pockets give the coat a dressier look.

    I was looking through fabric selections when Scott brought over an unlined Pal Zileri jersey lightweight wool blazer. It was just what I was looking for - no waiting for a coat to be made. The only change we added was to substitute a lighter button for the ones that came with the coat. This makes it look even less like a suit jacket and adds to the casual look of the coat. As you can see from the photo below, we put together a complete outfit. Paired with a blue Eton shirt, a light colored striped silk tie from Senstroms and a blue denim pocket square from Paolo Albizzati (I like cotton or wool pocket squares because they don’t sink into your chest pocket and they look more casual than silk pocket squares) and dress wool trousers, I am ready for any occasion - even court; so long as I am not in front of a jury! I can dress the jacket down by pairing it with jeans or khaki (chino) trousers and a sport shirt or even a t-shirt.

    IMG_9866 (1)

    So stop in and see the large collection of unstructured sport coats. But there are plenty of dressier structured sport coats - if the mood or occasion demands it.

    P.S. – As usual, Juan is responsible for making certain the outfit looks presentable in a photo!

  • A Day at the Races

    kentuckyderbyparty

    Most of the time, sporting event ‘dress codes’ involve team colors and face paint. Don’t get us wrong, we love a good tailgate as much as the next fan. It’s just that the Kentucky Derby is a special weekend for us because it combines spectator sports and sartorial flexing.

    Whether you’re down in KY or watching on the big screen, Derby & Oaks festivities are a great chance to flaunt your favorite springtime looks.

    Racetrack Runway

    Guys, even though you won’t be wearing the extravagant headwear favored by lady attendees, this is no time to slack in the hat department. A simple straw or Panama hat will shield you from the sun, and a colored band that coordinates with the rest of your outfit will have you looking like a real gent.

    A seersucker suit is a smart, traditional option that will keep you cool. Pair with a patterned bowtie to complete the classic Southern look. If you’re ‘mixing and matching,’ pair the airy jacket with a bright pair of trousers.

    If you’re aiming for a more modern presentation, consider a bold Italian sports jacket or shirt. There’s plenty of room at the Derby for bold plaids, prints and pastels, so throw a statement piece into the mix or have at it with fun accessories.

    Playing Host

    Our most important advice for your Derby party? Assess the guest list and stock mint julep supplies accordingly. Okay, there are plenty of other priorities for hosting, but this classic cocktail is a must. Use fresh mint and true Kentucky bourbon, lest you jinx your horse’s chances. New-school mixologists might toss in some rosemary or ginger for extra flavor.

    Let your guests get creative with a sandwich bar featuring warm biscuits and salty country ham. An array of spreads, from Dijon mustard to raspberry jam, will give plenty of flavor options for this brunchy treat.

    For sweet-toothed partygoers or a treat for the winners, serve up one of our favorite bon-bons, the bourbon ball. Try to score some of the originals from Rebecca Ruth, all rich chocolate and crunchy pecan.

    The most important part? Picking a horse, of course. Whether your choice is based on sire or silk colors, this is a chance to cheer on an American pastime and celebrate in style. If your pick wins, then you just might have found a lucky outfit.

  • Wearable Art

    Pal Zileri SS17 9x6

    When Pal Zileri designates its collections as Avant–Craft, it's more than just a tagline. The brand’s current visual aesthetic is dominated by alternately bold and subtle contrasts: between colors, geometries and textures.

    In terms of colors, for example, you’ll find vibrant shades like bronze metallic, orange papaya and cactus green juxtaposed with leaden gray. Zileri is focused on expert tailoring, but also on exploring the use of clothing as canvas. The Italian line is indebted to and entwined with a national lineage of abstract art.

    Careful not to overwhelm with an onslaught of stimuli, Zilleri pieces show a restrained hand that gently reveals themes across pieces. The Spring/Summer collection features modern suits that often glimmer with a sleek finish – less chrome than onyx. Shirts are overlaid with rectangles that add dimension and depth to a slimmed-down look.

    Stop by Syd Jerome to admire Pal Zileri works—art that’s meant to be worn.

  • Eton's Excellence

    TSG.eton

    Eton’s shirts are, quite simply, some of the finest in the world. The company combines nearly a century of craftsmanship with modern technology to create shirts that are an essential part of any well-dressed man’s wardrobe.

    Our favorite part about Eton shirts? The closer you get, the cooler they are—their exceptional quality is all in the details. That means colored buttons to add a subtle splash to your placket, and trim under the cuffs that discerning eyes will appreciate. Speaking of the cuffs…every Eton shirt is convertible, which means you can button barrel-style or break out your finest cufflinks. Yet another way that Eton shirts transition between occasions and offer special features.

    The details are impressive, but perhaps you’re concerned about the quality of construction. Well, every Eton shirt is made of 100 percent premium cotton and treated with a patented 35-step finishing process so it keeps its shape all day, even after countless washes. The process is totally organic, avoiding the harsh chemicals used by some other brands. Eton shirts come in a variety of fits, colors and their own unique patterns, so it’s easy to make one your own. Stop into Syd Jerome and try on Eton today.

  • Return of the BMW Art Car

    BMWartcar

    In 1975, a design series began to explore the intersection of art and engineering. The BMW Art Car project has grown to represent a design philosophy that calls for aesthetics and utility to work in tandem. Designers in the series have included pop gurus Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein, and conceptual sage Jenny Holzer. Dormant since Jeff Koons’ M3 in 2010, the past year has seen a revival of the project. The cars that have been the focus of this renewed interest are by three artists whose works, though very different, are unified by a shared use of primary colors and strong geometric elements.

    John Baldessari

    Unveiled at Art Basel this past November, the most recent official Art Car is an M6 GTLM racer amended by conceptualist John Baldessari. Much of his work has focused on the importance assigned to objects, symbols and text, and his car is no exception: FAST is emblazoned all-caps across the driver’s door. Red and green circles make an appearance, bringing the words STOP and GO immediately to mind. Based in Los Angeles, Baldessari looked to that city’s long-standing hot-rod culture for inspiration. Like those classics, his piece is customized but straightforward.

    Esther Mahlangu

    Back in 1991, Esther Mahlangu tricked out a 525i sedan with bright, bold patterns. The car still pops, due in part to a vibrancy that was handed down through generations. Mahlangu is based in South Africa, and the artistic traditions of her Ndebele tribe are an important aspect of her work. Learning her craft by painting houses and murals, Mahlangu was accustomed to large workspaces and her Art Car is covered down to the hubcaps. Pastel pinks and blues work with a range of other colors, and the BMW logo seems to play off of the triangular shapes. Mahlangu, now 81, was recently invited to work on an ‘Indiviudal Manufaktur’ 7 Series, created for a charity auction at London’s Frieze Art Fair. Subtler than the ’91 sedan, only the interior trim panels are painted in her signature patterns. This new work shows Mahlangu referencing the personal history of her oeuvre as well as the heritage that gives life to her style.

    Keith Haring

    The late, great Keith Haring developed one of the most recognizable visual vocabs ever seen. A crucial figure in bringing identity politics and activism into the art world, Haring’s stick figures and concentric mazes of line work also gave ‘respectability’ to the system-maligned realms of graffiti and street art. Twice Haring has applied his signature thick lines to red Z1 roadsters. The works were commissioned yet ‘unofficial’ in the series. That’s fitting, given that Haring’s work straddled the commercial and the transient—the exclusive space of a gallery vs. the shared environment of a city-block wall. BMW by no means disowned the rides, as they’re currently presenting a Haring Z1 along with four other custom-painted vehicles at the Petersen Automotive Museum in LA. The use of vehicle as canvas even pays homage to the graffiti-tagged subway cars of ‘70s NYC. These three artists created personally informed works while using a recognizable symbol of precision engineering as their center. In doing so, they’ve reminded us that art and engineering can indeed work together, beautifully.

  • If The Column Does Not Enlighten You, Here's A Way To Enrich You...A Special Offer | Sartorially Speaking by Marc Kadish

    Syd Jerome Presents...

    IF THE COLUMN DOES NOT ENLIGHTEN YOU, HERE'S A WAY TO ENRICH YOU......

    A SPECIAL OFFER

    On Wednesday and Thursday, Dorian Anderson, the Samuelsohn representative, will be showing his spring line at a Trunk Show at the store. Two new suits from Samuelsohn are shown below.

    Screen Shot 2017-04-11 at 2.04.31 PMI have had two suits and three sport coats made that Dorian and I designed. I like to pick out my own fabrics, linings and other special details. In addition, these days given some shrinkage with age and the new shorter lengths of suits and sport coats, I am neither a tall or regular with some of the Samuelsohn models. Dorian can offer me a mid tall at no extra cost.

    SPECIAL OFFER!
    Mention the column and for any special order for a suit or sport coat from Samuelsohn, you will receive a 10 PERCENT discount.

    So enrich yourself and help us see how many people read "Sartorially Speaking by Marc Kadish."

  • What to Wear For a Political Asylum Trial | Sartorially Speaking by Marc Kadish

    Syd Jerome Presents...

    WHAT TO WEAR FOR A POLITICAL ASYLUM TRIAL

    As seen below; a brown Canali suit with a faint orange over plaid, a blue Eton shirt and an orange wool paisley tie and pocket square from Robert Talbott. Would I have worn this outfit if it were a jury trial? NO - The suit and shirt would be appropriate, but I would have worn a more subdued tie and no pocket square or a plain white one. WHY - because the case and the client should be the center of attention. Your clothing should not be a distraction from the facts. I was once court appointed in a federal drug case. The potential jurors were seated in the courtroom. I was a few minutes late. As I rushed into the courtroom wearing a long shearling coat from my cousin’s company’s sample line, I heard a juror mutter: “Look at that coat; he must be a dope lawyer and his client must be guilty.” He was not selected for the jury. I learned my lesson.

    IMG_0471

    But immigration cases are tried before a judge without a jury. I expect that my appearance will not impact the trial. Besides the facts of our client’s case were much more compelling than my outfit. Mayer Brown lawyers handled the case on a pro bono basis. I merely helped them prepare for trial and sat at counsel table during the daylong trial.

    Our client is a young Somalian woman who shall remain nameless. What happened to her and the journey she was forced to take are so graphic that I am reluctant to write about them in any detail. Suffice it to say she had to leave Somalia by herself when she was 15. After an all day trial, she was granted asylum so she can remain in this country. She is now 23, married and with two young children.

    Thanks to the lawyers from Mayer Brown who worked so hard on this case: Paul, Nadav, Kathleen, Lori, Katy and Brigette. Thanks to the National Immigrant Justice Center for the work they do. Mary Meg McCarthy, the Executive Director of the organization, has been a guest a number of times at our family’s Passover Seders. She always reads the passages about welcoming strangers into our land. Her organization does great work. They deserve our support. They are having their annual fund raising luncheon on June 6th. For more information on the lunch and the organization go to www.immigrantjustice.org.

    And as for clothing…the new suits, sport coats, shirts and ties are flowing in because spring is on the way!

  • The Ties That Blind - A Redo | Sartorially Speaking by Marc Kadish

    Syd Jerome Presents...

    THE TIES THAT BLIND - A REDO

    On February 10th, an opinion piece entitled  "The Ties That Blind" appeared in The New York Times. It was written by Professor Richard Thompson Ford of Stanford Law School.

    His question was

    "What do these shiny badly knitted neckties say about the President?"

    I thought it was so clever and well written that I wanted to embed it in a column only to learn that existing copyright law dictated I had to wait at least 30 days to reproduce it. I had to change the original title to "The Ties That Blind" and "Blinded By The Light " in honor of an old Bruce Springsteen song.

    The requisite amount of time has passed. The professor's column, together with the faculty profile picture of him, is reproduced below. In the interim, the professor and I exchanged several emails. I knew he was working on a book about dress codes. I assumed it was not about dress codes for lawyers (remember an earlier column I wrote "Do Seventh Circuit Judges Care How You Dress For Oral Arguments") so I thought I would check with the professor. Besides having taught at law schools both full time and part time for a long time, it was my experience that most male faculty members do not consider fashion to be a priority.

    Screen Shot 2017-03-24 at 4.10.50 PMScreen Shot 2017-03-24 at 4.10.55 PM

    Ford_Richard-400x400I was curious about the professor's own dress code. His faculty profile picture showed a pocket square emerging from the breast pocket of his sport coat. (Another early column entitled " Do Real Men Wear Pocket Squares?) Both of us wear pocket squares. He believes they add "interest and polish" with a relaxed style. We both like unconstructed sport coats. He likes Isaia and Barbera - both brands the store carries.

    We both like ties of a certain pattern, but never shiny ties. I don't know if the professor's column had an impact on the president's ties. I have been paying more attention to what he says and does. That's more important than his ties.

    I hope the professor comes to Chicago so I can show him sport coats and ties at the store!

  • Eton Shirts Promotion March 22-29 | Syd Jerome

    Attention to all Eton fans! Beginning TOMORROW until March 29, Eton is having a buy 5, get the 6th free on Made to Measure and stock shirts. Stop in and stock up!

    PLUS, meet the representatives from Eton tomorrow and Wednesday, March 23.

    Screen Shot 2017-03-20 at 5.45.48 PM

  • A Prime Pinroll & Other Cool Cuffs

    pinroll

    Pinch, fold, roll, roll, smooth. Don’t worry if you’re confused: We decided to get straight to it and give you the simple steps to a pinroll, one of the coolest casual cuffs there is.

    The pinroll is a great way to give your denim or chinos a tapered look without having to head over to a tailor. It highlights footwear, meaning your freshest sneakers and loafers will be on full display instead of obscured by trouser hems.

    Ok, back to those directions—we’ll expand for your benefit:

    1. Pinch an inch or two of fabric at the bottom of your inside seam, effectively tightening your ankle opening.

    2. Fold the fabric back (we do it over a finger), making sure the crease doesn’t ride too far up.

    3. Roll your cuff up once while continuing to pinch the fabric, then roll again to lock the cuff into place.

    4. Smooth out any stray folds and you’ve got yourself a clean, sharp way to give your pants an extra jolt of street style.

    Working with a wider ankle opening? We’re also fans of a “wide cuff,” especially with raw denim and a good pair of black boots. Think James Dean or Brando, and fold a single time with a few inches of interior on display.

    If you’re going for a seaside or summertime look, chinos with a loose roll keep you looking smart yet laid back. Be careful not to cuff too many times and show too much calf, unless your boat is actually taking on water.

    Try out these cuffs with your favorite trouser and shoe combos, and if you dig the look consider spring and summer purchases with cuffing in mind. It’s a simple way to add texture and character to your look.

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