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  • Cary Grant's Style Tips

    The late, great Cary Grant was a perennial fixture on best-dressed lists in the 1950s and 60s. With characteristic modesty, the actor said he never understood why, for he never took the trouble to be fashionable or stand out. Therein lies a lesson: Being well dressed is a matter of style, not fashion; of the quality and fit of one’s clothes, not how loudly they speak.

    Below, we’ve distilled five personal style tips from one of the best-dressed men of modern times.

    1. Keep it simple

    Said Grant: “Simplicity, to me, has always been the essence of good taste.” He favored dark, solid neckties, white shirts and solid suits, as shown here.


    This studio portrait of Cary Grant shows the power of his typically “simple” wardrobe choices: sober wool suiting, white cotton shirt and handkerchief, and a solid tie. A few details give the look plenty of dash—bold peak lapels, French cuffs and an interesting weave in the necktie silk.

    2. Buy the best

    “It’s better to buy one good pair of shoes than four cheap ones,” said Grant. “One pair made of fine leather could outlast four inferior pairs, and, if well cared for, would continue to proclaim your good judgment and taste no matter how old they become. The same applies to suits, so permit me to suggest you buy the best you can afford even though it means buying less.”


    Seen lounging on a Paris rooftop, Cary Grant practiced what he preached: Buy quality clothing and dress better than you have to.

    3. Believe in blue

    Grant regarded a blue suit as the foundation of a man’s wardrobe, followed in importance by plain gray. As for shoes, he favored black for city wear but also admired the versatility of brown: “A brown pair of darkest chocolate color are useful with almost all suits.”


    Although Cary Grant favored dark blue, here he looks especially dapper in a light blue Prince of Wales check with a yellow windowpane. The unexpected (and very modern) choice of a brown knit necktie complements the suit well, as does the red carnation.

    4. Opt for high armholes

    They’re one mark of a well-tailored jacket. Grant explained: “If the sleeves seem disproportionately wider than customary, it indicates a very deep armhole. Don’t contemplate buying if you are of average or slim size—you’ll get a well-fitting back but an extremely loose-fitting front and sleeves that tend to ride up if you lift your arms. A deep armhole is popular with many manufacturers because each coat fits a wider range of customers.”


    High armholes on Cary Grant’s jacket add to the elegance of his suit. And contrary to what one might think, a high armhole gives the wearer a fuller range of motion.

    5. Go forth with confidence

    Grant knew that being well dressed is as much about attitude as clothing choices. “Wear, not only your clothes, but yourself, well, with confidence," Grant wrote. He added, “Pride of new knowledge—including knowledge of clothes—continually adds to self-confidence."


    With a boost from his excellent wardrobe, the young Cary Grant projects ease and confidence.
  • Match Game

    Almost all men, no matter how style savvy, harbor some confusion over which items of clothing and accessories to match, and which not to match. This primer sets things straight:

    1. Match metals

    The color of your watch, cuff links and belt buckle should be similar. That’s the ideal, but you can relax a little on this rule. Physical proximity matters: Watch and cuff links should complement each other. But if your wedding band is yellow gold and the horse bits on your Italian loafers are silver, chances are the style police will let you off without so much as a warning.


    The colors of metal accessories should match. In this picture, a Cartier watch and cuff links were designed to go together. Not only do the gold colors match, but so do the round shapes and the decorative sapphire detailing.

    2. Match leather colors

    The color of your watch strap, belt and shoes should match, more or less. You’re wearing a tan leather watch strap and black shoes? Go home and change immediately.


    Menswear’s most basic rule of matching: The colors of leather shoes and belt should be close. Never mix black and tan (unless it’s in a pint glass).

    3. Match socks to pants color (not shoe color)

    Or don’t. If the rest of your look is sedate, you can add interest by wearing colorful socks—or going sockless.


    Match dress socks to the color of trousers, not shoes, whenever possible. It’s more integral and more elegant. As these images show, the trousers-socks match has the desirable effect of lengthening the leg line.

    Of course, you can always use bold socks as a way to make yourself stand out—matching them to nothing at all.

    4. Match minor colors

    You might echo a minor color in your shirt or tie with a color in your pocket square or the windowpane in your sportcoat. Subtlety is key here.


    As seen in this look, a pocket square should ideally pick up some color detail from the necktie—but not match too closely.

    5. Don’t match tie and pocket square.

    Yes, you can buy matching sets. But to wear the pair together is a sign of sartorial weakness. Sorry.


    This look might work in Santa’s workshop, but it’s to be avoided everywhere else on earth.

    6. Don’t match shirt and tie exactly

    You’ve seen this monochromatic look at the Oscars—the black shirt and black tie. Truly el stinko.


    The visual power and elegance of a black tie ensemble come from the contrast of black and white. Going all black is never, ever as strong a look.

    7. Don’t match shirt and suit

    Contrast is key here! At the very least, contrast the shades. Example: A dark blue suit and a light blue shirt is an acceptable combination, but a better choice would be a white or striped shirt.


    A blue shirt would have killed this cool-weather look, but a white shirt with a bold blue check—that works. Note how the rust color in the pocket square plays off the necktie.

    8. Don’t match pants and shoes exactly

    We can think of one, and only one, exception to this rule: black shoes with a black tuxedo.

  • The Negroni Goes Oaxacan

    smokynegroni600

    Our man Rick Regan, a restless mixologist, has invented a terrific summer cocktail called the Too Far. “It’s a Oaxacan riff on the Negroni,” Rick explains, “named after my good friend Mark ‘Too Far’ Nuccio, principal clarinet of the Houston Symphony Orchestra, who likes to take practical jokes just a little too far.”

    The Too Far substitutes mezcal for gin, and Cynar, the artichoke-inflected amaro, for the more typical Campari. Ancho Reyes liqueur is added to amp up the smokiness. And then there’s the call for smoked ice cubes—the final (and optional) touch that takes this drink “too far.”

    Smoked ice cubes, you say? Making them is easy: Place ice cubes in a baking pan on a smoking BBQ grill. The smoke will attach to the ice before it melts. Then simply pour the water back into the mold and re-freeze it.

    Too Far

    • One serving equals:
    • 1 oz. mezcal (Del Maguey, Chichicapa)
    • 1 oz. sweet vermouth (Carpano Antica)
    • .5 oz. Cynar
    • .5 oz. Ancho Reyes Liqueur
    • 4 dashes chocolate bitters (Fee Brothers Chocolate Aztec)
    • 2 dashes grapefruit bitters (Fee Brothers)

    Add all to a mixing glass and stir with ice. Strain into a rocks glass over smoked ice.

  • Extraordinary Pants

    PEN.pt01 Their name may mean simply “pants from Turin," but Pantaloni Torino trousers are anything but ordinary. The company’s PT01 line is designed to break conventions, while preserving the classic Italian devotion to excellent craftsmanship.

    With casual pants and travel pants in a host of unique cuts and colors and available in worsted wool, blended cotton, corduroy, gabardine and more, there’s a vast array of choices for the modern man. Are they the perfect pants? We think so. Visit Syd Jerome to try on a pair or two and find out for yourself.

  • The New Syd Jerome Spring/Summer Magazine, Time To Check Your Closet | Sartorially Speaking by Marc Kadish

    Syd Jerome Presents...

    THE NEW SYD JEROME SPRING/SUMMER MAGAZINE JUST ARRIVED - TIME TO CHECK YOUR CLOSET
    AND WHAT’S AN UNSTRUCTURED SPORT COAT?

    I was looking for inspiration for this column when the new issue of the magazine arrived. I had already been looking through my closets to see what needed altering and what needed discarding (A suit and sport coat were donated through Mayer Brown to the Urban Alliance which requested “gently used professional clothing.”)

    Given my supposed slow down and transition to Pro Bono Advisor (I’m a failure at slowing down, but I still enjoy being a lawyer and dressing for court - albeit less than before.) did I want or need a new suit? And if so…vested or double breasted? But while I like both styles, they could be too uncomfortable on a hot Chicago summer day.

    So, what about a new navy blazer? They never go out of style and they can be dressed up or worn casually. But I did not want a navy blazer that looked like I was wearing a navy suit sans trousers. I wanted a more relaxed looking fabric.

    SO STRUCTURED VS UNSTRUCTURED?

    I stopped in the store thinking I would look at fabric samples to design a sport coat. I knew I wanted an unstructured sport coat. A structured sport coat will have some shoulder padding and a full lining. It will also have canvas between the fabric and the lining. This gives it a more structured look. An unstructured sport coat will have little or no shoulder padding. You will only feel fabric when you touch the shoulders. It will also have either a partial lining, known as a butterfly lining, in the upper part of the jacket or no lining. The butterfly lining makes it easier to take the coat on or off. No lining reduces the weight of the jacket and makes it cooler to wear. The other look I like in an unstructured sport coat is open patch pockets. Flap pockets give the coat a dressier look.

    I was looking through fabric selections when Scott brought over an unlined Pal Zileri jersey lightweight wool blazer. It was just what I was looking for - no waiting for a coat to be made. The only change we added was to substitute a lighter button for the ones that came with the coat. This makes it look even less like a suit jacket and adds to the casual look of the coat. As you can see from the photo below, we put together a complete outfit. Paired with a blue Eton shirt, a light colored striped silk tie from Senstroms and a blue denim pocket square from Paolo Albizzati (I like cotton or wool pocket squares because they don’t sink into your chest pocket and they look more casual than silk pocket squares) and dress wool trousers, I am ready for any occasion - even court; so long as I am not in front of a jury! I can dress the jacket down by pairing it with jeans or khaki (chino) trousers and a sport shirt or even a t-shirt.

    IMG_9866 (1)

    So stop in and see the large collection of unstructured sport coats. But there are plenty of dressier structured sport coats - if the mood or occasion demands it.

    P.S. – As usual, Juan is responsible for making certain the outfit looks presentable in a photo!

  • A Day at the Races

    kentuckyderbyparty

    Most of the time, sporting event ‘dress codes’ involve team colors and face paint. Don’t get us wrong, we love a good tailgate as much as the next fan. It’s just that the Kentucky Derby is a special weekend for us because it combines spectator sports and sartorial flexing.

    Whether you’re down in KY or watching on the big screen, Derby & Oaks festivities are a great chance to flaunt your favorite springtime looks.

    Racetrack Runway

    Guys, even though you won’t be wearing the extravagant headwear favored by lady attendees, this is no time to slack in the hat department. A simple straw or Panama hat will shield you from the sun, and a colored band that coordinates with the rest of your outfit will have you looking like a real gent.

    A seersucker suit is a smart, traditional option that will keep you cool. Pair with a patterned bowtie to complete the classic Southern look. If you’re ‘mixing and matching,’ pair the airy jacket with a bright pair of trousers.

    If you’re aiming for a more modern presentation, consider a bold Italian sports jacket or shirt. There’s plenty of room at the Derby for bold plaids, prints and pastels, so throw a statement piece into the mix or have at it with fun accessories.

    Playing Host

    Our most important advice for your Derby party? Assess the guest list and stock mint julep supplies accordingly. Okay, there are plenty of other priorities for hosting, but this classic cocktail is a must. Use fresh mint and true Kentucky bourbon, lest you jinx your horse’s chances. New-school mixologists might toss in some rosemary or ginger for extra flavor.

    Let your guests get creative with a sandwich bar featuring warm biscuits and salty country ham. An array of spreads, from Dijon mustard to raspberry jam, will give plenty of flavor options for this brunchy treat.

    For sweet-toothed partygoers or a treat for the winners, serve up one of our favorite bon-bons, the bourbon ball. Try to score some of the originals from Rebecca Ruth, all rich chocolate and crunchy pecan.

    The most important part? Picking a horse, of course. Whether your choice is based on sire or silk colors, this is a chance to cheer on an American pastime and celebrate in style. If your pick wins, then you just might have found a lucky outfit.

  • Wearable Art

    Pal Zileri SS17 9x6

    When Pal Zileri designates its collections as Avant–Craft, it's more than just a tagline. The brand’s current visual aesthetic is dominated by alternately bold and subtle contrasts: between colors, geometries and textures.

    In terms of colors, for example, you’ll find vibrant shades like bronze metallic, orange papaya and cactus green juxtaposed with leaden gray. Zileri is focused on expert tailoring, but also on exploring the use of clothing as canvas. The Italian line is indebted to and entwined with a national lineage of abstract art.

    Careful not to overwhelm with an onslaught of stimuli, Zilleri pieces show a restrained hand that gently reveals themes across pieces. The Spring/Summer collection features modern suits that often glimmer with a sleek finish – less chrome than onyx. Shirts are overlaid with rectangles that add dimension and depth to a slimmed-down look.

    Stop by Syd Jerome to admire Pal Zileri works—art that’s meant to be worn.

  • Eton's Excellence

    TSG.eton

    Eton’s shirts are, quite simply, some of the finest in the world. The company combines nearly a century of craftsmanship with modern technology to create shirts that are an essential part of any well-dressed man’s wardrobe.

    Our favorite part about Eton shirts? The closer you get, the cooler they are—their exceptional quality is all in the details. That means colored buttons to add a subtle splash to your placket, and trim under the cuffs that discerning eyes will appreciate. Speaking of the cuffs…every Eton shirt is convertible, which means you can button barrel-style or break out your finest cufflinks. Yet another way that Eton shirts transition between occasions and offer special features.

    The details are impressive, but perhaps you’re concerned about the quality of construction. Well, every Eton shirt is made of 100 percent premium cotton and treated with a patented 35-step finishing process so it keeps its shape all day, even after countless washes. The process is totally organic, avoiding the harsh chemicals used by some other brands. Eton shirts come in a variety of fits, colors and their own unique patterns, so it’s easy to make one your own. Stop into Syd Jerome and try on Eton today.

  • Return of the BMW Art Car

    BMWartcar

    In 1975, a design series began to explore the intersection of art and engineering. The BMW Art Car project has grown to represent a design philosophy that calls for aesthetics and utility to work in tandem. Designers in the series have included pop gurus Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein, and conceptual sage Jenny Holzer. Dormant since Jeff Koons’ M3 in 2010, the past year has seen a revival of the project. The cars that have been the focus of this renewed interest are by three artists whose works, though very different, are unified by a shared use of primary colors and strong geometric elements.

    John Baldessari

    Unveiled at Art Basel this past November, the most recent official Art Car is an M6 GTLM racer amended by conceptualist John Baldessari. Much of his work has focused on the importance assigned to objects, symbols and text, and his car is no exception: FAST is emblazoned all-caps across the driver’s door. Red and green circles make an appearance, bringing the words STOP and GO immediately to mind. Based in Los Angeles, Baldessari looked to that city’s long-standing hot-rod culture for inspiration. Like those classics, his piece is customized but straightforward.

    Esther Mahlangu

    Back in 1991, Esther Mahlangu tricked out a 525i sedan with bright, bold patterns. The car still pops, due in part to a vibrancy that was handed down through generations. Mahlangu is based in South Africa, and the artistic traditions of her Ndebele tribe are an important aspect of her work. Learning her craft by painting houses and murals, Mahlangu was accustomed to large workspaces and her Art Car is covered down to the hubcaps. Pastel pinks and blues work with a range of other colors, and the BMW logo seems to play off of the triangular shapes. Mahlangu, now 81, was recently invited to work on an ‘Indiviudal Manufaktur’ 7 Series, created for a charity auction at London’s Frieze Art Fair. Subtler than the ’91 sedan, only the interior trim panels are painted in her signature patterns. This new work shows Mahlangu referencing the personal history of her oeuvre as well as the heritage that gives life to her style.

    Keith Haring

    The late, great Keith Haring developed one of the most recognizable visual vocabs ever seen. A crucial figure in bringing identity politics and activism into the art world, Haring’s stick figures and concentric mazes of line work also gave ‘respectability’ to the system-maligned realms of graffiti and street art. Twice Haring has applied his signature thick lines to red Z1 roadsters. The works were commissioned yet ‘unofficial’ in the series. That’s fitting, given that Haring’s work straddled the commercial and the transient—the exclusive space of a gallery vs. the shared environment of a city-block wall. BMW by no means disowned the rides, as they’re currently presenting a Haring Z1 along with four other custom-painted vehicles at the Petersen Automotive Museum in LA. The use of vehicle as canvas even pays homage to the graffiti-tagged subway cars of ‘70s NYC. These three artists created personally informed works while using a recognizable symbol of precision engineering as their center. In doing so, they’ve reminded us that art and engineering can indeed work together, beautifully.

  • If The Column Does Not Enlighten You, Here's A Way To Enrich You...A Special Offer | Sartorially Speaking by Marc Kadish

    Syd Jerome Presents...

    IF THE COLUMN DOES NOT ENLIGHTEN YOU, HERE'S A WAY TO ENRICH YOU......

    A SPECIAL OFFER

    On Wednesday and Thursday, Dorian Anderson, the Samuelsohn representative, will be showing his spring line at a Trunk Show at the store. Two new suits from Samuelsohn are shown below.

    Screen Shot 2017-06-19 at 10.02.02 AM

    I have had two suits and three sport coats made that Dorian and I designed. I like to pick out my own fabrics, linings and other special details. In addition, these days given some shrinkage with age and the new shorter lengths of suits and sport coats, I am neither a tall or regular with some of the Samuelsohn models. Dorian can offer me a mid tall at no extra cost.

    SPECIAL OFFER!
    Mention the column and for any special order for a suit or sport coat from Samuelsohn, you will receive a 10 PERCENT discount.

    So enrich yourself and help us see how many people read "Sartorially Speaking by Marc Kadish."

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